These instructions were written for contractors and do-it-yourselfers who are constructing their own saunas. Much of the installation is basic construction. However, we hope these tips will make your sauna well-made to insure optimum enjoyment.

Materials supplied to install your sauna kit include: tongue & groove paneling for the interior walls and ceiling, inside corner trim, cove molding, pre-fabricated benches with support cleats, hardware, heater guard rail, pre-hung door with handles, sauna heater, light, headrest, sliding vent valve, 2 vent grills, thermometer, wood bucket, ladle, foil vapor barrier and duckboard flooring for the walk area.

Materials that are NOT furnished include: framing, insulation and exterior finish. All electrical work should be completed by a licensed electrician.

Study the instructions prior to installation. NOTE: Each lumber bundle is marked as to order of installation. Minor trimming may be needed to fit job conditions.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Please check immediately for any hidden damage that may have occurred in shipping. If any damage is found, you must notify the delivering carrier within 7 days.

TOOLS REQUIRED: Hammer, handsaw, and mitre box (for molding installation), drill or cordless screwdriver, tape measure, square and 3/8" wood bit. NOTE: Torx screws & bit are provided.

Hint: We recommend the use of a pneumatic pin nailer, with compressor - for installing the tongue & groove (T & G) boards. This will save more than 50% of labor time and will allow for easier blind nailing. Use 1 ¼" galvanized pin nails.

Preparation

Note: If the wall boards are to be installed horizontally, follow framing instructions as on this page (see Figure 1). If the installation is vertical - firring strips must be installed horizontally (see Figure 2).

1. BASEPLATE, CEILING & CORNERS
   The baseplate should be of treated 2 x 4's - for added protection against moisture on the floor. All other framing can be any suitable framing material (such as SPF 2 x 4's). Be sure to fasten the bottom plates to the floor with concrete nails - if the sauna is on concrete. The front wall (door wall) baseplate should be a double 2 x 4 (to provide the proper sill for the door). The floor should be a waterproof surface e.g. tile, linoleum or concrete.

   The ceiling height should be framed at a height of 7' off the floor. If the ceiling is above 7' it should be dropped. If the span is more than 8', use 2 x 6 framing; otherwise 2 x 4 framing is fine. See Figure 1.

   Be sure you have a nailer stud in each corner of the room, to allow fastening of the ends of the T & G boards. See Figure la.

2. FRAMING THE DOORWAY
   Each side of the doorway should have a double 2 x 4, for added strength. As noted above, the door wall should have a double 2 x 4 baseplate. This will provide proper sill height. If the door framing is perfectly plumb and square, it is best to frame it 1/8" to 1/4" bigger than the door's outside dimension - to give it a more rigid fit (e.g. the O.D. of the standard door jamb is 25.75 x 73.75: with plumb framing, frame it 26 x 74). This method of close framing should always be used if you are installing the all-glass door. The O.D. of the all-glass door jamb is 26 3/8 x 74 3/8: with plumb framing, frame it 26 5/8 x 74 5/8. For a custom built door, take actual outside dimensions of the frame to determine your rough opening.

3. FRAMING FOR VENTILATION
   Every sauna needs two vents: an air inlet and an air outlet. The air inlet should be lust below the heater, at floor level. Using 2 x 4 framing, frame an area with inside dimensions of 3¾ high x 6¼ wide.

   Inlet and outlet vent openings should be the same size. The inlet vent framing can be installed by simply nailing two short 2 x 4's to the stud nearest the heater (the stud forms one side of the vent, the baseplate forms the bottom, and the two short pieces complete the rectangle). See Figure 2.

   The outlet vent should be as far as possible from the inlet, in the diagonal corner of the sauna - just below the top bench. Frame the opening the same size the inlet, but so the top of the vent opening is ¾" off the floor. Again, use an existing stud to form one side of the vent. Nail a cross piece between two studs for the vent base; then nail two short 2 x 4's as with the inlet - to form the 3¼ x 6¼ opening.

   The exterior side of each ventilation opening is trimmed with the wooden louvered grills provided. Attach with 2" screws, with the louvers angled down.

   The sliding ventilation valve is mounted over the outlet, on the inside of the sauna, below the top bench support. Attach with 2" screws, such that the maximum opening of the valve matches the opening in the wall.

   If your sauna location does not allow for venting this manner, the main rule of thumb is: keep the inlet at floor level, and the outlet as far away as possible from the inlet. Do not install the outlet any higher than 30" - to ensure minimum loss of heat and humidity from the sauna.

4. ADDITIONAL FRAMING FOR HEATER MOUNTING
   Determine the location of the heater in the sauna. Add two 2 x 4 supports between studs for heater brackets (the brackets are to be mounted AFTER the T & G installation). The height and location of the additional supports is determined by the mounting instructions supplied with the heater. Note: This procedure is not necessary with optional heater floor stand for wall heaters and commercial floor standing heaters.

5. FRAMING FOR HORIZONTAL T & G
   The entire sauna should have 2 x 4 framing - on all four sides and the ceiling. If a portion of the sauna is solid wall construction (brick, block, etc.), those walls should be framed with 2 x 2 firring strips. Framing should be on 16" centers.

6. FRAMING FOR VERTICAL T&G LINING
   If you plan to install your T & G vertically, then install 2 x 4 or 2 x 2 nailers between the studs (two nailers between each pair of studs is sufficient). Install the nailers at a maximum of 28" vertical spacing, or attach nailers across 2 x 4 studs. See Figure 2.

7. ELECTRICAL
   It is much easier to rough-in electrical wiring when the framing is done, but before the insulation is put in. Have the electrician string wires from your breaker panel to the point on the wall where your mounted (if using external controls), and the same weight wire from the control to the floor area below the sauna heater (wires enter the heater through the bottom). See Figure 3. Always leave plenty of wire on each end to make the final hook-up easier. Depending on your control option, it may be surface mounted.

   Warning: Always use a licensed electrician. Always follow wiring instructions provided with the heater. Always use proper wire size and type - as specified in heater instructions (provided in heater box).

8. INSULATION
   Use fiberglass batts between the studs and between the ceiling joists. The wall insulation is 3½" fiberglass; the ceiling can be a double layer of 3½" with the second layer going across the bottom layer (or a single layer of 6" fiberglass). Unbacked fiberglass is best - to prevent a double vapor barrier.

9. VAPOR BARRIER
   It is preferable to use a foil vapor barrier - as provided in your custom kit. The foil is dual purpose: a vapor barrier and a heal reflectant. The vapor barrier always goes on the warm side (the sauna side) of the framing. Use staples to fasten the vapor barrier to the studs and ceiling joists. Install the foil horizontally, lower portions of the walls first. Install the upper foil pieces so the top sheet overlaps the lower sheet. When all sheets overlap, taping of sheets is not necessary. If you desire taped joints, use a foil tape (not provided).

   Interior Installation of Sauna Components

   Custom cut packages include tongue & groove lumber already cut to the length you specified. Each package of boards is labeled for the area of the sauna it goes, and the sequence in which it is installed. Also, the benches are pre-built and the door is pre-hung. Refer to your custom cut worksheet as a guide for sequence.

10. CEILING INSTALLATION
    Always install the ceiling boards first. Work from the back of the room to the front (or from the left side to the right). Start with a full board, with the groove against the wall. Nail the first board through the face of the board at each end, and along the side wall (to be covered later by cove molding). Using 4 penny nails, nail at the inside edge of the tongue, at an angle through the board into the framing.

    Continue with the other ceiling boards, nailing through the face on the ends, and through the inside edge of the tongue along the board. When you get to the last board, you will need to measure the space remaining. Scribe the board and cut to fit.

    Warning: ALWAYS use only galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Your Custom Cut Kit includes galvanized nails, and stainless steel screws.

11. T & G INSTALLATION
    The T & G boards should fit without any cutting (sometimes the door wall boards will be sent with extra length, so you can fit them exactly after the final door framing is complete). Nailing too close to the board ends can split the wood; likewise with nailing too close to the end of the tongue. All T & G boards are nailed so the tongues point away from the previously nailed boards. Use a nailset to recess the nail heads completely.

    Alternative Method: For standard blind nailing technique, see figure 4. Another option for blind nailing is to start your T & G boards at the top of the wall and nail through the groove rather than the tongue. See Figure 5. HINT: The use of a pneumatic pin nailer will add ease and speed to this application. Use 1¼" - 1½" galvanized pin nails.

12. WALL INSTALLATION/HORIZONTAL
    The wall boards are installed in sequence starting with the back wall, then the two side walls, and lastly the front wall (the door wall). The wall boards are cut slightly shorter than the actual framed dimension - to prevent binding and to prevent tearing of the vapor barrier.

    The backwall boards are ¼" shorter than the framing. Split the difference - about 1/8" space on each end. Any gaps showing at this point will be covered with trim later.

    The first tier of boards should be installed completely, before proceeding with additional tiers of boards. Find the highest point on the sauna floor, and use that as your starting reference point. Assuming your ceiling is level, measure down from the ceiling to locate the common distance for the starting point for all corners - not with the floor.

    All boards should be off the floor a minimum of ½" - to prevent "wicking" of moisture from the floor. If there is a significant slope to the floor (for example, a one inch drop from one end of the board to the other), rip the first board at a taper. Install the bottom board on the back wall (tongue up), followed by both sides, and the front. Be extra careful to get the first tier installed perfectly level and with all groove ends matching to the board on joining walls. This first tier is the guide for the boards above it.

    All layers above the bottom tier can go in the sequence noted, or one full tier at a time. See Figure 9. To keep the grooves matchinq, it is easier to go in a spiral pattern - one tier at a time.

    Remember each board is cut slightly shorter than the framed opening. Always split the difference of the space between both ends.

    When installing the short pieces on each side of the door, start with a full board (can notch out the edge of the tongue to fit the bottom of door frame) - as your guide. Make sure both sides remain in line with each other. The full length boards above the door need to fit same as the other side wall boards.

    When you get to the top board, measure the space remaining, scribe the board and cut it to fit. Install by face nailing along the outer edges (will be covered with molding).

    Hint: To keep one side of the wall from creeping up, start nailing on alternate ends of the boards. If you always start your nailing on the left side, for example, the right side with tend to creep up. If creeping does occur, you can make slight adjustments on the boards on adjoining walls. Keep checking for level, every few tiers.

13. WALL INSTALLATION/VERTICAL
    Start in the corner farthest from the heater. If you are right handed it is easiest to have the tongues pointing clockwise. Complete the two walls going toward the heater, and then the other two walls. The first board of each wall should start with the groove end flush. The last board, ripped to fit, can be beveled slightly to make it fit easier.

    Always butt vertical boards to the ceiling, and keep a minimum of ½" off the floor.

14. BENCH INSTALLATION
    The benches are positioned with the upper bench against the back wall of the sauna, and the lower bench parallel to it. There are four bench support boards: two that are 22 ¾" long for the upper bench, and two that are 46" long (length can vary with sauna model), for the lower bench - to allow the bench to slide under the top bench for ease in cleaning. Measuring from the floor, mark a line at 12" and 30" on the side walls. These measurements will be the TOP edge of the bench supports. Using 3" screws, secure the bench supports. By installing bench supports as shown, the actual bench height at the surface will be 18" (lower) and 36" (upper). Minimum distance from the upper bench to the ceiling should be 42" (more for taller people).

    NOTE: The wider bench always goes on top.

    Install the benches, starting with the bottom bench first. Note that one side of the bench is finished, while the other has exposed framing. The bench should be installed with the finished face forward. The benches are designed to be free-standing for ease in cleaning. However, if you desire no moveability of benches, fasten the benches directly to the wall using 3" screws through the framing members of the bench (the bench supports would still be used).

    NOTE: On saunas having an L-shaped top bench, you will have an additional top bench support. Install the support between the door and side wall, again with the top edge of the support 30" above the floor. Rest the end of the L-bench on the support, and position the opposite end to be flush with the main top bench. While holding the bench in position, drill two 3/8" holes through the face of the main top bench. Bolt together using the 5½" carriage bolts provided.

15. INTERIOR TRIM
    The cove molding is 1" x ¾". Cut the molding to length, and use to trim around the ceiling. Mount with the 1" side toward the wall. Install galvanized finishing nails.

    The corner molding is ¾" x ¾". On corners without benches, cut full length, and install with finishing nails. On corners with benches, cut the molding in two pieces: one from the bench surface up to the cove molding, and one from the bottom of the bench support down to the bottom of the wall boards.

16. BACKREST INSTALLATION
    Some sauna models include backrests.

    The backrest is included to provide bather comfort and for ease in cleaning the back wall. Actual installation height will vary, depending upon the height of the sauna owner/user. Position it so the backrest is in the mid-back/shoulder blade area (whatever feels comfortable - typically with the top about 20" above the bench).

    Holding the backrest at your preferred position, fasten through the predrilled holes, using 2" screws. Wood plugs are provided to cover the exposed screw head. See Figure 14.

    Repeat previous step if more than one backrest is included. Typically one backrest for each upper bench is included.

17. INSTALLATION OF HEATER GUARD
    Assemble the heater guard as shown in Figure 15. Use the 2" screws provided, and put in wood plugs to cover the exposed screw head. Place the heater guard so that it surrounds the heater with the top edge just below the exposed rocks. Attach it to the wall with the screws (1-5/8") provided. Leave at least 2" of space between the heater and the guard rail. NOTE: The front rails of the 2 sided heater guard can be cut to desired length before assembly.

    Typically the heater is mounted on the door wall. Center the heater in the space created by the wood heater guard. On heaters with separate controls, mount the sensor about head high on a side wall or back wall (not above the heater and not near the door).

    Rinse the rocks before placing in the sauna heater. Put the biggest rocks in the rock compartment first - to allow maximum air flow through the rock mass. Do not try to force all the rocks in. It is important to have space between the rocks to give optimum heater performance (faster heat-up time, higher temperatures).

18. DOOR INSTALLATION
    The door is pre-hung with a jamb. Please note the sauna doors must always swing out. Remove the screw securing the door.

    Place the door into the framed opening and fasten the hinge side to the 2 x 4 frame (use 3" screws provided). Mount so the door jamb is flush with the surface of the exterior wall material. See Figure 16. The door is reversible, and can be hinged left or right. Be sure the door is level and plumb. If it is not, use shims between the opposite side jam and frame. Check for uniform spacing at the top of the door and the jamb, then continue to fasten around the frame.

    After the door is securely in place, install the jamb extensions provided. The jamb extensions should be flush with the surface of the T & G on the interior sauna walls. The tapered edge of the jamb extension butts up against the existing door jamb. The easiest way is to nail the extension to the side of the framed opening (an alternative method is to attach the extensions to the door frame itself). After jamb extensions are secured, install the interior door casing provided. The casing should cover most of the jamb extensions (leave about a 1/8" area of jamb showing - to improve looks). Nail to the jamb and to the walls inside the sauna room. The exterior or the door is typically trimmed to match the molding in the adjacent room. See Figure 17.

    Install the door handles inside and out (both are the same), with the 3" screws; apply glue to handle before attaching. Installed height is approximately 36" to the center of the handle.

  

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