These instructions were written for contractors and do-it-yourselfers who are constructing their own saunas. Much of the installation is basic construction. However, we hope these tips will make your sauna well-made to insure optimum enjoyment.
Materials supplied to install your sauna kit include: tongue & groove paneling for the interior walls and ceiling, inside corner trim, cove molding, pre-fabricated benches with support cleats, hardware, heater guard rail, pre-hung door with handles, sauna heater, light, headrest, sliding vent valve, 2 vent grills, thermometer, wood bucket, ladle, foil vapor barrier and duckboard flooring for the walk area.
Materials that are NOT furnished include: framing, insulation and exterior finish. All electrical work should be completed by a licensed electrician.
Study the instructions prior to installation. NOTE: Each lumber bundle is marked as to order of installation. Minor trimming may be needed to fit job conditions.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Please check immediately for any hidden damage that may have occurred in shipping. If any damage is found, you must notify the delivering carrier within 7 days.
TOOLS REQUIRED: Hammer, handsaw, and mitre box (for molding installation), drill or cordless screwdriver, tape measure, square and 3/8" wood bit. NOTE: Torx screws & bit are provided.
Hint: We recommend the use of a pneumatic pin nailer, with compressor - for installing the tongue & groove (T & G) boards. This will save more than 50% of labor time and will allow for easier blind nailing. Use 1 ¼" galvanized pin nails.
Preparation
Note: If the wall boards are to be installed horizontally, follow framing instructions as on this page (see Figure 1). If the installation is vertical - firring strips must be installed horizontally (see Figure 2).
The ceiling height should be framed at a height of 7' off the floor. If the ceiling is above 7' it should be dropped. If the span is more than 8', use 2 x 6 framing; otherwise 2 x 4 framing is fine. See Figure 1.
Be sure you have a nailer stud in each corner of the room, to allow fastening of the ends of the T & G boards. See Figure la.
Inlet and outlet vent openings should be the same size. The inlet vent framing can be installed by simply nailing two short 2 x 4's to the stud nearest the heater (the stud forms one side of the vent, the baseplate forms the bottom, and the two short pieces complete the rectangle). See Figure 2.
The outlet vent should be as far as possible from the inlet, in the diagonal corner of the sauna - just below the top bench. Frame the opening the same size the inlet, but so the top of the vent opening is ¾" off the floor. Again, use an existing stud to form one side of the vent. Nail a cross piece between two studs for the vent base; then nail two short 2 x 4's as with the inlet - to form the 3¼ x 6¼ opening.
The exterior side of each ventilation opening is trimmed with the wooden louvered grills provided. Attach with 2" screws, with the louvers angled down.
The sliding ventilation valve is mounted over the outlet, on the inside of the sauna, below the top bench support. Attach with 2" screws, such that the maximum opening of the valve matches the opening in the wall.
If your sauna location does not allow for venting this manner, the main rule of thumb is: keep the inlet at floor level, and the outlet as far away as possible from the inlet. Do not install the outlet any higher than 30" - to ensure minimum loss of heat and humidity from the sauna.
Warning: Always use a licensed electrician. Always follow wiring instructions provided with the heater. Always use proper wire size and type - as specified in heater instructions (provided in heater box).
Interior Installation of Sauna Components
Custom cut packages include tongue & groove lumber already cut to the length you specified. Each package of boards is labeled for the area of the sauna it goes, and the sequence in which it is installed. Also, the benches are pre-built and the door is pre-hung. Refer to your custom cut worksheet as a guide for sequence.
Continue with the other ceiling boards, nailing through the face on the ends, and through the inside edge of the tongue along the board. When you get to the last board, you will need to measure the space remaining. Scribe the board and cut to fit.
Warning: ALWAYS use only galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. Your Custom Cut Kit includes galvanized nails, and stainless steel screws.
Alternative Method: For standard blind nailing technique, see figure 4. Another option for blind nailing is to start your T & G boards at the top of the wall and nail through the groove rather than the tongue. See Figure 5. HINT: The use of a pneumatic pin nailer will add ease and speed to this application. Use 1¼" - 1½" galvanized pin nails.
The backwall boards are ¼" shorter than the framing. Split the difference - about 1/8" space on each end. Any gaps showing at this point will be covered with trim later.
The first tier of boards should be installed completely, before proceeding with additional tiers of boards. Find the highest point on the sauna floor, and use that as your starting reference point. Assuming your ceiling is level, measure down from the ceiling to locate the common distance for the starting point for all corners - not with the floor.
All boards should be off the floor a minimum of ½" - to prevent "wicking" of moisture from the floor. If there is a significant slope to the floor (for example, a one inch drop from one end of the board to the other), rip the first board at a taper. Install the bottom board on the back wall (tongue up), followed by both sides, and the front. Be extra careful to get the first tier installed perfectly level and with all groove ends matching to the board on joining walls. This first tier is the guide for the boards above it.
All layers above the bottom tier can go in the sequence noted, or one full tier at a time. See Figure 9. To keep the grooves matchinq, it is easier to go in a spiral pattern - one tier at a time.
Remember each board is cut slightly shorter than the framed opening. Always split the difference of the space between both ends.
When installing the short pieces on each side of the door, start with a full board (can notch out the edge of the tongue to fit the bottom of door frame) - as your guide. Make sure both sides remain in line with each other. The full length boards above the door need to fit same as the other side wall boards.
When you get to the top board, measure the space remaining, scribe the board and cut it to fit. Install by face nailing along the outer edges (will be covered with molding).
Hint: To keep one side of the wall from creeping up, start nailing on alternate ends of the boards. If you always start your nailing on the left side, for example, the right side with tend to creep up. If creeping does occur, you can make slight adjustments on the boards on adjoining walls. Keep checking for level, every few tiers.
Always butt vertical boards to the ceiling, and keep a minimum of ½" off the floor.
NOTE: The wider bench always goes on top.
Install the benches, starting with the bottom bench first. Note that one side of the bench is finished, while the other has exposed framing. The bench should be installed with the finished face forward. The benches are designed to be free-standing for ease in cleaning. However, if you desire no moveability of benches, fasten the benches directly to the wall using 3" screws through the framing members of the bench (the bench supports would still be used).
NOTE: On saunas having an L-shaped top bench, you will have an additional top bench support. Install the support between the door and side wall, again with the top edge of the support 30" above the floor. Rest the end of the L-bench on the support, and position the opposite end to be flush with the main top bench. While holding the bench in position, drill two 3/8" holes through the face of the main top bench. Bolt together using the 5½" carriage bolts provided.
The corner molding is ¾" x ¾". On corners without benches, cut full length, and install with finishing nails. On corners with benches, cut the molding in two pieces: one from the bench surface up to the cove molding, and one from the bottom of the bench support down to the bottom of the wall boards.
The backrest is included to provide bather comfort and for ease in cleaning the back wall. Actual installation height will vary, depending upon the height of the sauna owner/user. Position it so the backrest is in the mid-back/shoulder blade area (whatever feels comfortable - typically with the top about 20" above the bench).
Holding the backrest at your preferred position, fasten through the predrilled holes, using 2" screws. Wood plugs are provided to cover the exposed screw head. See Figure 14.
Repeat previous step if more than one backrest is included. Typically one backrest for each upper bench is included.
Typically the heater is mounted on the door wall. Center the heater in the space created by the wood heater guard. On heaters with separate controls, mount the sensor about head high on a side wall or back wall (not above the heater and not near the door).
Rinse the rocks before placing in the sauna heater. Put the biggest rocks in the rock compartment first - to allow maximum air flow through the rock mass. Do not try to force all the rocks in. It is important to have space between the rocks to give optimum heater performance (faster heat-up time, higher temperatures).
Place the door into the framed opening and fasten the hinge side to the 2 x 4 frame (use 3" screws provided). Mount so the door jamb is flush with the surface of the exterior wall material. See Figure 16. The door is reversible, and can be hinged left or right. Be sure the door is level and plumb. If it is not, use shims between the opposite side jam and frame. Check for uniform spacing at the top of the door and the jamb, then continue to fasten around the frame.
After the door is securely in place, install the jamb extensions provided. The jamb extensions should be flush with the surface of the T & G on the interior sauna walls. The tapered edge of the jamb extension butts up against the existing door jamb. The easiest way is to nail the extension to the side of the framed opening (an alternative method is to attach the extensions to the door frame itself). After jamb extensions are secured, install the interior door casing provided. The casing should cover most of the jamb extensions (leave about a 1/8" area of jamb showing - to improve looks). Nail to the jamb and to the walls inside the sauna room. The exterior or the door is typically trimmed to match the molding in the adjacent room. See Figure 17.
Install the door handles inside and out (both are the same), with the 3" screws; apply glue to handle before attaching. Installed height is approximately 36" to the center of the handle.
